Update in Automne (pictures at the bottom for those with short-attention spans)

It's been a while since I last wrote something, I have to say I've had a bit of what the french call "la flemme" or melancholic laziness.  I sometimes forget the fact that being in France to study anthropology and development and to teach english to under privileged children is a reason to make me feel good, not melancholic !

As a foreigner in France, it can be so easy to get caught up in the frustration of constant administrative woes and delays. It doesn't help that melancholy and la flemme were practically invented by the french, so you can always find someone to commiserate with. That being said though, almost all of the french friends I have made in my master or through the friends of Jonathan, including himself, are positive, open-minded, travel-enthusiast, adventure-loving people...I really gotta throw myself out of this funk...eh ?

Anyway, during my absence I've of been reading a lot of analytical and critical anthropology (interesting, but I won't bore you with it here), a bit of rock climbing, eating and testing new recipes and restos in Marseille.

At my primary school, the children are adorable and so enthusiastic. We have been learning colors and numbers, and of course the story of Thanksgiving. Though I really don't anticipate being a teacher for young kids at any point, at least in a formal sense, it is fun to go in and play games and to encourage them in their education.

Jonathan and I have been testing new restaurants with friends in Marseille (as well as testing new recipes with squash, pumpkin and beets from the autumn harvest in France--more on that later), here are some of our favorites:

• Chez Sauveur, 10 Rue d'Aubagne
• The first night we moved to Marseille, we were so sweaty, exhausted, HUNGRY, that we really just wanted a big pizza and 2 cold beers. I have an "insider's guidebook" to Marseille, that suggested Chez Sauveur for pizza, which happened to be 10 minutes from our place. We had ordered to go, but were asked to stay and eat, and it was the best decision we made. Fabrice the owner, is a super-foodie, super friendly guy who puts out a delicious food and fabulous desserts every week. We became fast regulars, going once every week or two weeks. à tester (to test) : The cannellonis, the lasagna, the roquette and Parma ham pizza...mmmm
• Le Pavillon Thai, 28 Rue Frères Barthélémy
• Copious, authentic, delicious (and the spicy is REALLY spicy, I actually turned red, finally !!). We got the menu dégustation, I think, which comes with a smorgasboard (not a thai word) of entrées--nems, shrimp and pineapple, and other tasty things--then another smorgasboard of plats--a sweet beef, spicy curried chicken, sweet, gluey coconut rice, and a garlic and ginger chicken--followed by sorbet and washed down with thai beer.
• La Garbure, 9 Cours Julien
• Resto Sud-Ouest, so confit de canard, foie gras...fat, butter, and delicious ! Charming location, charming hosts and fantastic chefs, and a 26 euro tasting menu complete with apéritif...I'll take it !

Finally, here are a few photos from this autumn's happenings: 

Took a mini-trip to Nice

Old Nice, it couldn't be anymore beautiful

and another to Antibes, look at the snow-capped mountains !

Pumpkin Cake from Thanksgiving

Sunset from the Corniche John F Kennedy, Marseille

The best bang for your buck: the 13th of Paris

The 13th of Paris is known for being both the site of Paris' Chinatown as well as housing one of my favorite restaurants (Chez Gladines) and favorite bars (Sputnik) in Paris. Here are 5 stops that are sure to please both you and your bank account.


1. Tang Frères

48 Avenue d'Ivry 75013 (metro Porte d'Italie), closed Mondays
168 Avenue de Choisy 75013, Tram Porte de Choisy

My friend Rebecca turned me on to the 13th upon my return to France this January, and no proper trip to the 13th is complete without a visit to one of many Tang Frères supermarkets. Why ? It's...

• CHEAP
• I've never left Tang Frères paying more than 30 euros for an enormously full re-usable carrefour bag of groceries. This includes getting meat, cheese, fruits, veggies, sauces, beer, and tea. 30 EUROS. 
• QUALITY
• Unlike some places where cheap can mean crap, cheap at Tang Frères means deal for quality food. They have fresh chicken breasts that they cut for you, the veggies and fruits are bountiful and diverse, and they have spices and sauces this gal could only dream of in other supermarkets (and for the price, too).
• SPEED ("I feel the need...the need...for SPEED")
• I always spend forever getting in and out of french grocery stores, from the time it takes me to remember where the brioche is to the time it takes to go through the line (because only 2 in 15 are open) I have spent way more time than I want in a grocery store. 
• At Tang Frères, you feel the buzz of people closing in on you, pushing you around the store like you're on a moving walkway. Every aisle has its purpose and flows seamlessly from product to product. The cash lines are powered by speedy employees, and though there are many people, efficiency is paramount in Tang frères. No trip lasts more than 30 minutes. 

2. Pho 14 :

129 Avenue de Choisy, 75013, Metro Tolbiac

• I've put Pho 14 on here and will be adding more after my first trip this Saturday. For cheap quality eats (see others that I've talked about in my previous post : My top 3 of 14th in Paris) in Paris, Pho restaurants as well as other vietnamese, thai, and chinese restaurants in general are the places to eat for a good quality-price-amount ratio.  But, they aren't all good, so as the french would say, méfiez-vous. 
• Pho is a vietnamese soup traditionally served with rice noodles, basil (vietnamese basil), beef or chicken, sprouts, and lime/hot sauce on the side. A big bowl at Pho 14 is under 8 euros, and you will not be needing seconds. 
• More to come (plus photos) after my trip this weekend !

3. UGC Gobelins: 
66 Avenue de Gobelins, 75013, Metro Place d'Italie

• Aside from UGC Ciné Cité Bercy, this is the most affordable big movie theater for the under 26 crowd (and over 26 as well). Forget Châtelet, this places offers a 3.90 euro under 26 ticket and screens the many films in their original language.

4. Sputnik
14/16 Rue de la Butte aux Cailles, 75013, Metro Corvisart

• I love the Sputnik for many reasons
• First, I met my wonderful boyfriend here during a conversation club when I first studied abroad in Paris (thanks, Courtney! :D)
• Second, though happy hour is only 2 hours from 19h-21h, their cocktails are delicious and they have Delirium (a fab belgian beer) on tap, amongst others. Cocktails and pints of beer are half off during happy hour.
• Third, the staff are awesome, friendly and take care of their regular customers. They have a great space to host a fun bar night with friends and are always bustling with people...it's a great ambiance.

in the Sputnik for my PACS party !

5. Chez Gladines
30 Rue des Cinq Diamants, 75013, Metro Corvisart


No proper gourmand trip to Paris is complete without a stop at Chez Gladines.  I bring my friends, family, even strangers to bask in its culinary glory.  The portions are enormous and the prices are cheap.

• What to get:
• If you're ravenous either the Magret de Canard with Roquefort cheese sauce (12 euros) or the Escalope de Veau (12 euros), which is a pile of veal, ham, and cheese melted together and covered in sizzling, mouthwatering sauce...OM NOM
• Salade de Cinq Diamants (10 euros): there is an egg, and some good ham, cheese, potatoes, tomatoes, other delicious meats and of course a bit of salad
• When to go:
• At lunch time
• In the evening, before or around 7:30pm

Try to go in even-numbered groups, it is much easier to get a seat ! If you arrive and a ton of people are already waiting, don't be afraid, go inside, put your name down and then go across the street and get a drink like the other folks waiting. You won't be disappointed when you get a seat and take on your feast. 

Other suggestions from Rebecca, my friend/resident 13th expert:

• Monte Cassino, 76 Avenue de Gobelins, 75013, Metro Place d'Italie: Excellent (large!) pizzas at a great price, try the pizza with Parma ham, roquefort and an egg...
• Café La Place, between 180-192 Avenue de Choisy, Metro Place d'Italie, good ambiance, 5 euro cocktails and 5 euro café and crèpe

Do you have any suggestions for the 13th of Paris? 

Bourgogne Travel, recommendations from our adventures

Jonathan and I recently road tripped to the Burgundy region of France for a weekend with friends and tried our best to take advantage of all the region has to offer.  After a lovely weekend, I'd like to write a post that both highlights the best of our trip and offers tips to future travelers !


First, when traveling in wine country, the best thing to do is rent (or use, if you already have) a car.  Trains can easily take you to the city center, but can make exploring multiple vineyards more difficult.


Where to stay:  
In France, depending on where you go, a chambres d'hôtes may be the best and most affordable option. Sometimes the chambres d'hôtes are just outside of the city or in the heart of the country, before booking decide where works best for you (also depends on your access to a car or train).

• We stayed in a chambres d'hôtes that was smack in the middle of Dijon and Beaune (20km each way, about a 25 minute drive) called Aux Quatres Saisons (http://www.aux-quatre-saisons.net/). 
• The price for 2 people in a double room is 65 euro a night with a super breakfast the following day: all you could eat of baguette, croissants, pains au chocolat and coffee or tea for a hot beverage.  
• Stephanie and Fiore, the owners, are wonderfully hospitable and can give you all the suggestions you would possibly need for an excellent wine experience in Bourgogne.  It is also a great starting point for exploring the region. 

© Aux Quatres Saisons

• Another chambres d'hôtes that I would recommend is the Marc d'Or (http://www.chambre-hote-dijon.com/), we were thinking about staying here originally but they had no rooms left. However, they also offer a double room with breakfast at 65 euros a night, a friendly welcome, and outstanding comfort.

Where to eat:
In Beaune, there are a lot of good options for a nice dinner or lunch.  We were looking for something that would satisfy our craving for burgundian regional foods (boeuf bourguignon, escargots, etc.) as well as restaurants that don't break the budget. 

• Beaune : Piqu'boeuf...Specialty=meat. They have a roasting hearth where your tender steaks are grilled as well as potatoes for a side. On trip advisor they get a 3.5 out of 5, but I give them a 5 out of 5.  
• First, for a 4-course meal it's 27 euros...4 courses ! 3 courses for 22 euros. 
• Second, you have a variety of choices so that you are not obligated to go traditional...but you can.  I had the escargots with a garlic butter and leeks, yum, then a beautiful cut of beef with a red wine sauce, then a cheese plate, and finally a delicious molten chocolate cake...mmm. 
• Dijon : We didn't stay long enough in Dijon to really get a feel for the food scene, but for lunch we had a scrumptious 8 euro plate at Café Chez Nous (8 Rue Quentin 21000) ...reasonable prices, fresh ingredients, this place was great (and busy!) for lunch.

Café for locals or local-lovers only 

•  For other suggestions in Dijon, I recommend checking out this website http://www.lisasdotcom.com/dijonrestaurants.htm, there are reasonable and more expensive options on this list, and the recommendations are coming from someone who actually lived and ate in Dijon.

What to do: Beaune
A taster's delight in the Bourgogne area, with the Edouard Fallot Mustard production facility (still made the old way, stone ground and all) and the tens of wine caves in walking distance around the city. We called our Chambres d'Hôtes for recommendations on wine tasting as well as talking to the Office of Tourism and other travelers for their recommendations.

• Cave de l'Ange Gardien: The cave owners (and wine producers) Pierre and Nicole are so welcoming and so informative.  We tasted 11 wines: 3 whites, 4 reds, 2 crémants, Crème de Cassis and 1 Muscat.  At the end of it all, Nicole offered us a true "Kir Royale" (Crémant + Crème de Cassis)...needless to say with a warm reception and a fabulous tasting, we came away with a few bottles of wine (and some crémant and cassis).

Cave de l'Ange Gardien

• Edouard Fallot Mustard-erie (Moutarderie) http://www.fallot.com/index.php) : We didn't get a chance to go here because we thought it was in Dijon, oops ! But the mustard is delicious and they still make it traditionally. Take home some mustard with honey and balsamic vinegar or mustard à la spiced bread.

Fallot in Dijon (visit in Beaune too!)

• Hospices of Beaune: Well worth a visit for only 5 euros (the reduced student rate), 6.70 euros if not. It's a 15th century house that was built for the poor and sick and has a wide variety of wonderful tapestries and artworks. The tiled roof in the courtyard is splendid, especially in the sunlight.  The Hospices are also famous for their annual wine auction which takes place in the fall. 

The Hospices

• Walk amongst the vines, there are so many trails that start directly in Beaune! Keep in mind though that it's easy to get lost because they are somewhat poorly marked. If you get the hiking map the shortest route is route 12, which on the map is in teal...well the markers are now currently yellow. Good info to know ! :)

Vines! and a couple of people who look half normal

What to do: Dijon

Dijon is all about the Parcours de la Chouette (the Owl Trail). If it's your first time going, if you follow this trail you will be able to see the majority of the city in a few hours. From cathedrals to museums to medieval architecture, you will not be disappointed.  If you need a pause, halfway through your journey at Place de la Liberté there are 2 cafés that offer a wide selection of ice creams, coffees, smoothies, etc. to relax and people watch.  I personally had a chocolate milkshake...mmm...


Also, Dijon is a great place to taste mustard (both Fallot and Maille d'Or as well as others), Pain d'Epices and other burgundian specialties. We arrived on a sunday and they seemed to have quite a hefty antiques market as well, rings, old clocks, odd bits of pipes and old keys (meanwhile in the background the soft beat of Django Reinhardt in your ears...sigh France).

The Chouette

on the Parcours

bobbles and bangles

Ready to taste some wine or take a trip to beautiful region of Bourgogne, 'cause I'm certainly ready to go back ! 

cheers!

Kels

If you've already been to Dijon or Beaune or both, please feel free to add suggestions with comments, I would love to get more suggestions ! My blog post is both describing what my friends and I did and also a suggestion to others who are looking for an enjoyable, affordable short weekend in Burgundy.  Photos are © Kelsy Wilson.  

Food Blog : My top 3 of the 14th in Paris

Bistros, Restos, Bakeries...there is no shortage of these pinnacles of cuisine in Paris, but finding the right one that matches price with quality and quantity can be hard...here are my three current favorites based on these criteria :

1. DOMINIQUE SAIBRON
77 Ave. Général Leclerc 75014 Paris
http://www.dominique-saibron.com/
I was first introduced to this superb bakery by my friend Rebecca. Located in the 14th, one of my favorite arrondissements, it serves up a variety of delicious macarons (See photo of their macarons in the previous post) at a more reasonable price than La Durée or Pierre Hermé (1,35 instead of 1,70-80).  I personally love the coco-mangue, Rebecca the Passion fruit-chocolate.  However, their pastry selection is not limited to macarons, try the Roulé of Pistachios, the Croissant praliné, the Opéra and/or the Tiramisu Millefeuille and you won't be disappointed.

Closed on Monday, stop by in the afternoon, sit on the terrace and have a café crème (or chocolat) and your pastry of choice.


2. CREPERIE LA BRETONNE
56 Rue Montparnasse, 75014 Paris
Up and down the Rue Montparnasse are a host of breton crêperies (it is the old breton quarter in fact), and I've tried almost every one of them.  From the Crêperie Josselin to Crêperie Bretonne to la Bretonne, this Crêperie is my favorite for the ambiance, galettes, crêpes, and price.  Depending on what you choose, you can easily eat a tasty galette complète (ham, cheese, egg) and a dessert crèpe with melted, salted caramel or nutella AND a glass of cider for under 15 euros. Deal ! And delicious. If you decide to get something more fancy, it will still be less than 20 euros. When full, go to the Crêperie Josselin just up the street, it is also tasty !


3.  LA CROCCANTE
138 Rue Vaugirard, 75015 Paris
Ok, this isn't french cuisine, and it's just outside of the 14th. But it is damn good, and so reasonable.  This restaurant may just be my new favorite place to eat in all of Paris. It gets top marks for all categories of price, quality, quantity and ambiance.

• Price: On a recent date with Jonathan, we paid 46 euros for a large bowl of pasta, a pizza, 2 glasses of wine, 2 desserts (tiramisu and panna cotta with strawberry sauce) and a coffee. 
• Quality: Almost everything is homemade. During the day this restaurant is also a deli, selling tasty olive oils, fresh meats and cheeses, and wine. The pasta  for meals is homemade, the mozzerella, too...everything is fresh and flavorful.
• Quantity: immense. With 2 plats you will barely have enough room for dessert (even though you'll get it, or at least you should). 
• Ambiance: The restaurant and its staff are sicilian, they are welcoming, kind, enthusiastic and knowledgeable...everything you want for a night eating out. 
• What to get ? Pasta with pistachio sauce, cherry tomatoes, and pancetta or pasta puttanesca..mmm.  Really any of the pizzas or pastas (it's all good).  For an entrée, the cheese/meat plates are wonderful, so is the bruschetta. Dessert...Sigh...Best panna cotta I've had...PERIOD, Grandma's famous Tiramisu, and Cannolis are on the top of the list.

More "tops" from the arrondissements of Paris to come !

Finally, I have to give credit to my pals Rebecca and Julien for introducing me to Dominique Saibron and La Croccante.  

Kels

Article and Blog Background Frenzy

So, some of you may have noticed I've been on a blog background change frenzy.  The thing is, I just couldn't seem to find one that suited me...am I a cool, funky pattern kind of a girl, or maybe a vintage style picture girl, or maybe I like photos of books to show off my literary prowess...but none of these quite struck the chord.  I had a good long think about what really defines me and realized that nothing says "me" more than my love for food, cooking, and eating in new restaurants.  My boss at work calls me a "gourmande," I talk about food, the new foods I want to try, the tasty foods I recently had non stop...it's time for me to embrace my obsession.  It's true that when looking back on my older posts, almost every one of them has some sort of food-related image...I believe that this is not by hazard.  My brain is telling me something.  And thus, the new style ! I promise I won't change anymore, because then I'll probably have to put one of those "Caution: could cause Seizures" warnings, and no one wants that.

SECOND, fun news ! My awesome friend Court has a fabulous website (www.filleamericaine.com) and she let me post an article on it about reverse culture shock and the re-entry process.  Having lived through it (had to go back to Ann Arbor after 8 months in France), and now having the pleasure to work with a study abroad school that also provides tips on how to deal with re-entry, I decided to write this piece for those who may be leaving an abroad experience soon.  Please check it out and send me some sweet html lovin' :)

http://www.filleamericaine.com/home/2011/5/13/re-entry-the-reverse-culture-shock.html?lastPage=true#comment12882058

Finally, I am not sure if I mentioned this yet, but my boyfriend, Jonathan, and I were PACsed (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacte_civil_de_solidarit%C3%A9) on April 5th ! Here's a photo from the celebration :

Photo © Rebecca Tuttle

Basically, this means we have almost the same legal rights as a married couple -a few. It also means that if we decide to stay in France for a longer period than we're planning now, it will be possible for me to stay and work.

Anyway, more to come soon...when Court arrives we are planning on going out to new restaurants and writing about them, which goes perfectly with my new blog image and my life motto.

Food photos for thought (1. in Spain, delicious homemade bocadillos with chorizo, avocado, cheese, and lettuce, 2. macarons from Dominique Saibron) :

Photos © Kelsy Wilson