First, when traveling in wine country, the best thing to do is rent (or use, if you already have) a car. Trains can easily take you to the city center, but can make exploring multiple vineyards more difficult.
Where to stay:
In France, depending on where you go, a chambres d'hôtes may be the best and most affordable option. Sometimes the chambres d'hôtes are just outside of the city or in the heart of the country, before booking decide where works best for you (also depends on your access to a car or train).
- We stayed in a chambres d'hôtes that was smack in the middle of Dijon and Beaune (20km each way, about a 25 minute drive) called Aux Quatres Saisons (http://www.aux-quatre-saisons.net/).
- The price for 2 people in a double room is 65 euro a night with a super breakfast the following day: all you could eat of baguette, croissants, pains au chocolat and coffee or tea for a hot beverage.
- Stephanie and Fiore, the owners, are wonderfully hospitable and can give you all the suggestions you would possibly need for an excellent wine experience in Bourgogne. It is also a great starting point for exploring the region.
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| © Aux Quatres Saisons |
- Another chambres d'hôtes that I would recommend is the Marc d'Or (http://www.chambre-hote-dijon.com/), we were thinking about staying here originally but they had no rooms left. However, they also offer a double room with breakfast at 65 euros a night, a friendly welcome, and outstanding comfort.
In Beaune, there are a lot of good options for a nice dinner or lunch. We were looking for something that would satisfy our craving for burgundian regional foods (boeuf bourguignon, escargots, etc.) as well as restaurants that don't break the budget.
- Beaune : Piqu'boeuf...Specialty=meat. They have a roasting hearth where your tender steaks are grilled as well as potatoes for a side. On trip advisor they get a 3.5 out of 5, but I give them a 5 out of 5.
- First, for a 4-course meal it's 27 euros...4 courses ! 3 courses for 22 euros.
- Second, you have a variety of choices so that you are not obligated to go traditional...but you can. I had the escargots with a garlic butter and leeks, yum, then a beautiful cut of beef with a red wine sauce, then a cheese plate, and finally a delicious molten chocolate cake...mmm.
- Dijon : We didn't stay long enough in Dijon to really get a feel for the food scene, but for lunch we had a scrumptious 8 euro plate at Café Chez Nous (8 Rue Quentin 21000) ...reasonable prices, fresh ingredients, this place was great (and busy!) for lunch.
- For other suggestions in Dijon, I recommend checking out this website http://www.lisasdotcom.com/dijonrestaurants.htm, there are reasonable and more expensive options on this list, and the recommendations are coming from someone who actually lived and ate in Dijon.
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| Café for locals or local-lovers only |
A taster's delight in the Bourgogne area, with the Edouard Fallot Mustard production facility (still made the old way, stone ground and all) and the tens of wine caves in walking distance around the city. We called our Chambres d'Hôtes for recommendations on wine tasting as well as talking to the Office of Tourism and other travelers for their recommendations.
- Cave de l'Ange Gardien: The cave owners (and wine producers) Pierre and Nicole are so welcoming and so informative. We tasted 11 wines: 3 whites, 4 reds, 2 crémants, Crème de Cassis and 1 Muscat. At the end of it all, Nicole offered us a true "Kir Royale" (Crémant + Crème de Cassis)...needless to say with a warm reception and a fabulous tasting, we came away with a few bottles of wine (and some crémant and cassis).
- Edouard Fallot Mustard-erie (Moutarderie) http://www.fallot.com/index.php) : We didn't get a chance to go here because we thought it was in Dijon, oops ! But the mustard is delicious and they still make it traditionally. Take home some mustard with honey and balsamic vinegar or mustard à la spiced bread.
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| Cave de l'Ange Gardien |
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| Fallot in Dijon (visit in Beaune too!) |
- Hospices of Beaune: Well worth a visit for only 5 euros (the reduced student rate), 6.70 euros if not. It's a 15th century house that was built for the poor and sick and has a wide variety of wonderful tapestries and artworks. The tiled roof in the courtyard is splendid, especially in the sunlight. The Hospices are also famous for their annual wine auction which takes place in the fall.
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| The Hospices |
- Walk amongst the vines, there are so many trails that start directly in Beaune! Keep in mind though that it's easy to get lost because they are somewhat poorly marked. If you get the hiking map the shortest route is route 12, which on the map is in teal...well the markers are now currently yellow. Good info to know ! :)
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| Vines! and a couple of people who look half normal |
What to do: Dijon
Dijon is all about the Parcours de la Chouette (the Owl Trail). If it's your first time going, if you follow this trail you will be able to see the majority of the city in a few hours. From cathedrals to museums to medieval architecture, you will not be disappointed. If you need a pause, halfway through your journey at Place de la Liberté there are 2 cafés that offer a wide selection of ice creams, coffees, smoothies, etc. to relax and people watch. I personally had a chocolate milkshake...mmm...
Also, Dijon is a great place to taste mustard (both Fallot and Maille d'Or as well as others), Pain d'Epices and other burgundian specialties. We arrived on a sunday and they seemed to have quite a hefty antiques market as well, rings, old clocks, odd bits of pipes and old keys (meanwhile in the background the soft beat of Django Reinhardt in your ears...sigh France).
Also, Dijon is a great place to taste mustard (both Fallot and Maille d'Or as well as others), Pain d'Epices and other burgundian specialties. We arrived on a sunday and they seemed to have quite a hefty antiques market as well, rings, old clocks, odd bits of pipes and old keys (meanwhile in the background the soft beat of Django Reinhardt in your ears...sigh France).
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| The Chouette |
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| on the Parcours |
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| bobbles and bangles |
Ready to taste some wine or take a trip to beautiful region of Bourgogne, 'cause I'm certainly ready to go back !
cheers!
Kels
If you've already been to Dijon or Beaune or both, please feel free to add suggestions with comments, I would love to get more suggestions ! My blog post is both describing what my friends and I did and also a suggestion to others who are looking for an enjoyable, affordable short weekend in Burgundy. Photos are © Kelsy Wilson.
What a wonderful blog! I feel like I was there with you and know that now I have to check this area of France out for myself! Thanks again, for sharing your life, travels and food with all of us!
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ReplyDeletei've been to beaune and dijon, as well as a few other little cities in the bougogne region! i went with my grandparents and absolutley loved it! the food was delicious everywhere - i think i had escargot three or four times, as well as trying other local treats like cuisses de grenouilles:)
ReplyDeleteyou're absolutely right, chambres d'hotes is the way to go! not only is it easier on the budget, but you get the added benefit of meeting locals from the region and getting to know them, their culture, and what to do while you're there - something you might not get in a larger hotel. i'm not sure if you did the musée des beaux arts in dijon, but i would definitely recommend it to anyone who visits! it's a wonderful region, so glad you got to go and share your adventures with all of us!
thanks, jules ! We can go back when you come back to France :)
ReplyDeleteAny new book recs for me from your reading list ? I have a friend who recently lended me "The Art of Racing in the Rain".
Hey Kels!
ReplyDeleteI've not been to Bourgogne yet, but I would love to visit and really like your tips! I'll let you know if I ever make it out there. Bisous!